Those two numbers will tell you the ohm range is of your sender. I had to get a sending unit for a 2. Edited April 22, 2013 by 47heaven Are you testing the unit in or out of the tank? Only one hole for the sender is supplied in an original tank, unlike the fine reproduction tanks that come with two. You may need someone to pull on the line while you press on the coupling. Here are some useful tips. Here is the finished end in the engine compartment where a short fuel hose will complete the connection from the fuel tank to the fuel pump.
Hopefully you have found the problem by now, and thanks to your thread I have a working fuel gauge myself! The power supply to the gauge has been interrupted, check fuses , the gauge is defective, or the wire from the gauge to the sending unit is open or has a break in it. The 5-holes are not evenly spaced. If that post is grounding out you will only see zero ohms on a gauge or multimeter. . The second hole in them is for the fuel pickup or electric pump in fuel-injected cars. Aftermarket Gauges: Note: If you are installing an aftermarket fuel gauge you need to make sure that the gauge is the same ohms as your sender. I moved the setup from the bench to the fuel tank, and all is working good so far.
I can't see how it would break between the changing of the senders, but then again anything is possible. Float is installed in our mockup of the tank and positioned just off the bottom of the tank. For example a 69 Camaro has a 0-90 ohm fuel sender. Other than drilling another inch-wide hole and 5 bolt holes in the tank, what's the best way to attack this thing? If the gauge reads full or empty with the resistor pack in place of the sender, then the gauge or anti-slosh module is at fault. Most aftermarket fuel senders use a rotating float arm and resistance cards to measure the amount of fuel in a tank which can lead to erratic pointer movements. I replaced the tank with a 16 gallon tank and instead of two sending units, I used the extra hole to hang another pump.
Move the float arm and the fuel gauge indicator should move. Thanks again for your advice, and if it turns out that's not a grounding issue, then I will refer back to the info. If not, recheck the ground circuit. I have an 1988 Ford Ranger and my sending unit was not working. Not that any of this is a surprise but I thought I would share the results of the bench test, A standard e30 sending unit should be at 0 ohm when full and 60 ohms empty - the gauge I purchased is 10-65 ohm full and empty respectively. On older units the floats may be made of cork.
If the gauge does not read at all, check the power with a multimeter at the gauge terminal. Fuel gauge sender testing and replacement The next steps require dropping the fuel tank and removal of the fuel level sender. Use extreme caution if you do the next step. The time depends on how experienced you are. The fuel gauge sender assembly comes out by removing a large metal ring that unscrews from the tank. Some applications might need to join more than one length of line at strategic points to allow for routing in close quarters. Instructions for this are usually included with the gauge package.
I'm going to test it again, but make sure that the grounding is better. Install the new sender by lowering the float and float arm into the tank. Anti-Slosh module pictures courtesy of Saleen0679 Anti-Slosh module repair - Copied from DrBob I worked on an 88 Mustang today that had similar symptoms. Yes, Al, I am testing outside of the tank. The voltage will change, but I have no specs for what it should be. But every now and again it starts working all on its own.
Put the nuts in the zip bag with the filler bolts. It, to, was a Sunpro. If there is no resistance as close to zero Ohms as possible , the circuit is good and the sender is faulty. Maybe your old gauge is bad? I don't have an Ohm meter with me, but I'm not sure if testing ohms would matter in this case or not. It resists the flow of current from the ground to the gauge, depending on the position of the float within the tank. Right: The new fuel gauge.
I replaced the sending unit and electrolitic capasitor on the anti-slosh module and that did not fix my problem. Plan was to soak the pump hanger so I could reuse it. Becoming a pancake is not part of the repair process. Please let me know-what you think! First measure tank depth from the top of the tank, near the sending unit, to the bottom. How much error depends on the particular combination of sender to parallel resistance. The gauge should be good.
With the multimeter set to the Ω setting put the red probe on the post that is the gauge lead and put the black probe on the ground post or on the body of the fuel sender. If you damage the clips, you can get new ones form the auto part store for just a few dollars. You'll need to remove the sending unit from the tank for inspection and testing. To minimize confusion, use a marker to show the direction of travel of the float arm once the screw holes are aligned. Center of float pivot point should be the reference for half the depth.